Wash the sample in hot water, and it takes this system about one minute to dry it. If you have a set of screens, you can wash more while the sample drys. No hot frying pans, waiting for cooling, or smelly oil smoke. And, your show evaluation will improve because you haven't converted light crude into smelly gunk...having driven it soundly through the thermal window for oil generation...
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Frozen Gas Detectors and How To Avoid Them
You've been there, Zama Lake, January, 3 AM, wind howling, and furnace going continuously to keep it barely comfy in the shack. Your gas detector is beeping constantly, because the flow is 0.2 SCFH and you can't seem to keep it thawed out. And, the top of the Slave Point is imminent, and the engineer is getting suspicious of the gas detector's function, or, at least more suspicious than normal. You have been outside ten times today, tearing the system apart and thawing out another big hunk of frost in the condenser hose. Now, there is frost in the polyflo tubing. You have been up for 36 hours, eyelids puffy from fatigue, and all you want to do is sleep. Sleep? Ironically, you thank the oil company for not sending you to Helmet, where your polyflo is 500 feet long, and you just remembered that you taped it to every handrail post on the rig. More on THAT later.
Condenser Hose Bubbler
This is one of my inventions that has done more to save freeze-up headaches than any other device. It has allowed me to relax in cold weather and concentrate on the job at hand. This one might be the best 15 minutes you'll spend when it's 40 below. I know, I know, there are better ways to spend 15 minutes when it's that cold!
Modifying the Calcium Chloride Dryer bottle
Normally, the flow direction through the calcium chloride dryer is down the tube inserted into the calcium chloride and up through the chloride. There is a distinct physical disadvantage with this flow direction: The dehydration point is right at the base of the tube where the humid sample meets the chloride...forming a solid clump of chloride which eventually blocks the flow. This is aggravated if the chloride gets up into the tube when you reassemble it after changing out the last clump...
Solution: Reverse the flow direction! Do this by flipping the entry and exit hardware. The first advantage is that you suddenly present a huge increase in reaction surface area to the humid sample, effectively dehumidifying it more efficiently. Next, as further insurance, cut a two inch square of Scotchbrite (plastic pot scrubber material) and cover the end of the outlet tube (formerly the inlet tube immersed in chloride). Tape the folded Scotchbrite over the tube end (I use a piece of bicycle inner tube like an elastic band), or, you can roll up a small wad of it and insert it into the tube. Step two to ending freezing headaches.
When and if a crust forms on the top of the calcium chloride, it usually doesn't constrict flow. The crust can be disrupted by swatting or jiggling the dryer bottle. The chloride lasts a whole lot longer this way.
A few suggestions here. Remember, you have to rig it down again, so don't make it difficult to do so! With the advent of Pason or Chimo electronic geolograph systems, the usual rigup involves stringing the polyflo line from the rig to your shack.
Polyflo has a tensile strength of about 400 pounds in cold weather, somewhat less in summer heat. This means you can stretch a long span with only two main supports, one at the rig and one at your shack. The rest of the rigup can be routed so as to avoid interfering with rig operations. I have found the best route for the polyflo is from the trap and around the V-door end of the rig. String it so it passes under the V-door slide and to the roof of the doghouse. The brass ferrule connection at the trap can sustain some tension, so snug the tubing up under the slide and rig floor once you gain the roof of the doghouse.
This routing avoids the cumbersome task of taping (and later untaping) the polyflow to handrails (where they are vulnerable to roughneck-pinching) or other rig hardware. Tip: When stringing polyflo, unravel about twenty feet at a time, and then tape the spool up again. You can then fling the taped-up spool, like a lifebuoy, through brackets and over hoses and cables on the rig. If you have ever dealt with a roll of polyflo that has sproinged into a snarl of entangled spaghetti, you'll understand the taping trick. With time you can become adept at flinging your lifebuoy from below the V-door on the matting, over the doghouse, and lassoing the Motorhand having a smoke by the water truck.
|To tether the polyflow, obtain two wire tensioner clips from a drilling recorder service hand. These clips use a wedging action to grip a cable or tube, and can apply considerable tension to a cable to pull out the sag over large spans between anchor points. Use one on the doghouse roof, and one on your shack post. I also use one to relieve strain on my Yagi antenna cable. You may wish to protect the tubing by slipping a piece of 1/4" ID rubber tubing over it and wedging the rubber tube in the wire clip, but I have found that is optional. When it comes time for tear-out, disconnect from the trap, disconnect from the doghouse roof, and the whole shooting match will extract from the rig with one long tug.|